Lutsk: A recommended tour to introduce the city's pleasures

1

Theater Square

Theater Square GPS: 50.746699, 25.324993

OK, let’s go! We suggest you start your tour at the Theater Square (the Maydan Teatralnyy) often referred to as “the center”. Starting here will allow you to walk back in time from modern days to the beginnings of Lutsk, more than 900 years ago. Stand in the square looking down Lesya Ukrainka Street – the long pedestrian street to the south. Behind you, across Voli (Freedom) Boulevard, is the Tsum department store (currently under reconstruction following a devastating fire, it is expected to re-open by the end of summer, 2012). It along with many of the buildings beyond it are examples of typical construction during the Soviet era in Lutsk. To your right is the statue of Lesya Ukrainka, one of Ukraine’s most beloved authors. Behind Lesya is the Taras Shevchenko Regional Drama and Music Theater. Both of these are relatively recent additions to Lutsk, the theater having been completed in the 1930’s and the statue appearing in the 1970’s. Do you see and hear the people walking through the square?

Two hundred years ago, the sound was different, as this area served as a parade ground for Russian troops, who occupied Lutsk beginning in 1795, when the city became part of the Russian Empire. This area was the limit to northern expansion of the city until the 20th century, and much of the land around you was occupied by public parks.

3

Brick building

Lesia Ukrainka str GPS: 50.744902, 25.322811

Once you get to Kryvyy Val (Curvy Hill Street) begin to pay special attention to the varied architectural styles. You can easily identify buildings from the pre-Soviet era, with strong 19th century Polish influence, reflecting the Polish empire’s dominance in Lutsk in the 17th and 18th centuries. In addition, buildings from Soviet times blend into the scene, and more modern buildings attempt to re-capture the mood of the earlier structures. Three of the buildings are marked with plaques designating them as historic monuments, including the oldest building on the street - a yellow brick building (early 19th century) on the right near the end of the street.

5

Kronstein’s House

Lesia Ukrainka str GPS: 50.741346, 25.318198

But we will return to the central pedestrian street of the city - Lesia Ukrainka Street. Walking here, do not rush - the decor of the facades of most houses deserves attention and admiration. The oldest house on this street is at the end at number 5. It is a small brick house built in the beginning of the XIX century, where a grocery store is located. On the contrary - the former home of the Lutsk businessmen of the Kronsteins, now is the premises of the Medical College. It was built at the end of the XIX century, with various embellishments. However, all the decorative elements in 1928 were knocked down, because they were considered a sign of a lack of aesthetic taste. Nevertheless, even without them, the house retains its grandeur and solemnity.

7

Street Danil Bratkovsky

GPS: 50.740706, 25.317574

Walking on the street immediately to the left of the Church, looking to your right just past the church buildings, you will see the distinctive tower roof of the Chartorysky Tower. This tower is the only one of the eight towers of the Okolnyi, or Lower, Castle that has been preserved. It is attached to the Jesuit collegium. The Okolnyi Castle and the Lutsk, or Upper, Castle together with defensive sacred buildings, made up the general defensive system of Lutsk. The nobility – civic authorities, servicemen, court representatives – lived in the Okolnyi Castle. If you can visualize the area that would have been encompassed with the connected walls of the Okolnyi Castle and the Lutsk Castle in the distance, you can get a sense of the magnitude of the complex. Unfortunately, today the Okolnyi Castle is just a memory, with the Chartorysky Tower standing as a constant reminder.

9

Protection of Virgin Orthodox Church

12 Galician Daniel str GPS: 50.738999, 25.317528

As you walk along Galyts’koho Street you can’t help but notice the bright yellow church to your right. This is the Protection of Virgin Orthodox Church, the oldest of the existing Orthodox churches in Lutsk that is still in its original form. Built in the first half of the 17th century, it replaced a more ancient church, which was mentioned in a document in 1583 as already old and needing repair. Minor external changes were completed in the 19th century, including the construction of the bell tower that remains today. The church is known for an icon of the Virgin of Volyn, painted in the 14th century. In 1970 the church presented the icon to the National Museum of Fine Arts in Kiev. As with other Orthodox churches we’ve identified, the Protection of the Virgin Church represents the continuing persistence of the Orthodox faith in the face of the Polish Catholic influence.

11

Lutsk Castle

1А Cathedral str GPS: 50.738915, 25.323254

Finally, backtrack to Castle Square and turn right to visit the city’s signature monument, the Lutsk Castle, also known as Lubart’s Castle or the Upper Castle. It was built by the great prince of Volyn, Dmytryi Lubart in 1340-1383 and served as his home. In later years, the castle was the property of other great Lithuanian princes. For many years Lubart Castle served as a strong fortress and as the administrative, political and spiritual capital of the region. It stands on the same ground as an earlier, wooden defensive fortress. Within the area are the remains of the Church of St. John the Theologian, which was built within the walls of the original wooden structure; a museum of bells; a book museum housed in the former Treasury; and an art museum. In 2011, the castle was voted as the best castle in Ukraine, a selection with which the people of Lutsk proudly agree. The castle hosts various activities during the year, including arts and crafts fairs, concert events and knight’s battles. Not surprisingly, it is the most popular site for wedding photographs for couples from Lutsk and surrounding towns. For a small entrance fee, you can wander on the castle grounds, and imagine yourself attending the famous meeting of European leaders in 1429, a meeting to discuss how to deal with threats from the east.

13

Estate Kosach

23 Cathedral str GPS: 50.738339, 25.318948

Continue now on Kafedralna Street toward the large cathedral in the distance and the Lutsk Castle. As you walk, you will pass the home where the Kosach family, the family of Lesya Ukrainka, lived in the late 1800’s. It was here where Lesya wrote her first known poem, 'Nadia' ('Hope').

15

Lutheran Church

16 Karaite str GPS: 50.737976, 25.316174

Continuing to walk on Galyts’koho Street, look to your right to see the former Lutheran Church, built by German colonists in Lutsk at the beginning of the 20th century. The church looms over the western end of Kafedralna Street. The well-proportioned neo-gothic building with its steep spire is crowned by a large gold cross which completes the architectural spatial axis. In 1940, most of the colonists returned to Germany and their church began to decay. During Soviet times, it was used as a document archive, but in the late 1980’s and early 1990’s, the local Evangelical Baptist community restored the church and began using it as their house of worship.

17

Exaltation of the Cross Orthodox Church

2 Galician Daniel str GPS: 50.740500, 25.317298

Resist the temptation to turn left on the cobbled street toward the castle (we’ll get there soon) and instead walk up Dragomanova Street. Almost immediately, on your right, you will see the Exaltation of the Cross Orthodox Church, which held monastery cells and the buildings of the ancient public religious and cultural educational organization – Lutsk Orthodox Brotherhood. The Brotherhood was allowed to exist, even though it represented resistance to the Catholic influence of the Polish Empire. The complex was built in the early 17th century, replacing the old hospital and church that had been built by Lazar, son of Lithuanian Prince Lubart. A school and a Russian hospital were also located in the complex. Many Ukrainian elders were interred in the caves of the Exaltation of the Cross Orthodox Church, including poet Danylo Bratkovskyi, buried there in 1702. Across the street, on the wall of the library (biblioteka), you can see evidence of the conflict between influences in western Ukraine. There is a plaque memorializing Bratkovskyi, who was executed for his nationalistic beliefs. A fire in 1803 damaged the church and the stone walls were demolished, leaving only the altar, around which the church was reconstructed. Today the church belongs to the Ukrainian Orthodox Church.