Welcome to our self-guided walking tour of Lutsk. We hope this program will help you enjoy the historical highlights of our city – a city that has experienced nearly every influence that has affected Ukraine over the last 1000 years. But before we start, remember, the tour may take 1 ½ to 2 hours – if you need food, liquid refreshment or a caffeine boost during your tour, the route will take you past, or near, numerous restaurants, cafes, coffee houses and bars. Any of them will be happy to help you solve your problem.
With the assistance of the Lutsk Tourist Information and Services Center Visitlutsk.com.
OK, let’s go! We suggest you start your tour at the Theater Square (the Maydan Teatralnyy) often referred to as “the center”. Starting here will allow you to walk back in time from modern days to the beginnings of Lutsk, more than 900 years ago. Stand in the square looking down Lesya Ukrainka Street – the long pedestrian street to the south. Behind you, across Voli (Freedom) Boulevard, is the Tsum department store (currently under reconstruction following a devastating fire, it is expected to re-open by the end of summer, 2012). It along with many of the buildings beyond it are examples of typical construction during the Soviet era in Lutsk. To your right is the statue of Lesya Ukrainka, one of Ukraine’s most beloved authors. Behind Lesya is the Taras Shevchenko Regional Drama and Music Theater. Both of these are relatively recent additions to Lutsk, the theater having been completed in the 1930’s and the statue appearing in the 1970’s. Do you see and hear the people walking through the square?
Two hundred years ago, the sound was different, as this area served as a parade ground for Russian troops, who occupied Lutsk beginning in 1795, when the city became part of the Russian Empire. This area was the limit to northern expansion of the city until the 20th century, and much of the land around you was occupied by public parks.
OK, let’s go! We suggest you start your tour at the Theater Square (the Maydan Teatralnyy) often referred to as “the center”. Starting here will allow you to walk back in time from modern days to the beginnings of Lutsk, more than 900 years ago. Stand in the square looking down Lesya Ukrainka Street – the long pedestrian street to the south. Behind you, across Voli (Freedom) Boulevard, is the Tsum department store (currently under reconstruction following a devastating fire, it is expected to re-open by the end of summer, 2012). It along with many of the buildings beyond it are examples of typical construction during the Soviet era in Lutsk. To your right is the statue of Lesya Ukrainka, one of Ukraine’s most beloved authors. Behind Lesya is the Taras Shevchenko Regional Drama and Music Theater. Both of these are relatively recent additions to Lutsk, the theater having been completed in the 1930’s and the statue appearing in the 1970’s. Do you see and hear the people walking through the square?
Two hundred years ago, the sound was different, as this area served as a parade ground for Russian troops, who occupied Lutsk beginning in 1795, when the city became part of the Russian Empire. This area was the limit to northern expansion of the city until the 20th century, and much of the land around you was occupied by public parks.
Finally, to your left is the Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral, one of the landmarks of Lutsk.
It was built in the period from 1752 – 1755, and was originally a Catholic Church and Bernardine monastery complex. In the ebb and flow of religious influences in Lutsk, the latter half of the 19th century saw the complex pass to the control of the Orthodox Church. With the construction of the bell tower and dome in 1880, the cathedral became the center for the Orthodox community. The cathedral is a two-story building in a horseshoe shape, with two towers in the central portion of the façade. This composition is rare for a monastery and is more like the architecture of a palace. The interior cathedral décor, still preserved today with a two-level carved and gilt iconostasis created by Ukrainian masters, dates back to the 19th century. The cathedral is the dominant architectural feature of the Theater Square and today belongs to the Ukrainian Orthodox Church. The monastery of St. Vasyl the Great and the St. Catherine Church now occupy buildings of the complex.
Finally, to your left is the Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral, one of the landmarks of Lutsk.
It was built in the period from 1752 – 1755, and was originally a Catholic Church and Bernardine monastery complex. In the ebb and flow of religious influences in Lutsk, the latter half of the 19th century saw the complex pass to the control of the Orthodox Church. With the construction of the bell tower and dome in 1880, the cathedral became the center for the Orthodox community. The cathedral is a two-story building in a horseshoe shape, with two towers in the central portion of the façade. This composition is rare for a monastery and is more like the architecture of a palace. The interior cathedral décor, still preserved today with a two-level carved and gilt iconostasis created by Ukrainian masters, dates back to the 19th century. The cathedral is the dominant architectural feature of the Theater Square and today belongs to the Ukrainian Orthodox Church. The monastery of St. Vasyl the Great and the St. Catherine Church now occupy buildings of the complex.
Once you get to Kryvyy Val (Curvy Hill Street) begin to pay special attention to the varied architectural styles. You can easily identify buildings from the pre-Soviet era, with strong 19th century Polish influence, reflecting the Polish empire’s dominance in Lutsk in the 17th and 18th centuries. In addition, buildings from Soviet times blend into the scene, and more modern buildings attempt to re-capture the mood of the earlier structures. Three of the buildings are marked with plaques designating them as historic monuments, including the oldest building on the street – a yellow brick building (early 19th century) on the right near the end of the street.
Once you get to Kryvyy Val (Curvy Hill Street) begin to pay special attention to the varied architectural styles. You can easily identify buildings from the pre-Soviet era, with strong 19th century Polish influence, reflecting the Polish empire’s dominance in Lutsk in the 17th and 18th centuries. In addition, buildings from Soviet times blend into the scene, and more modern buildings attempt to re-capture the mood of the earlier structures. Three of the buildings are marked with plaques designating them as historic monuments, including the oldest building on the street – a yellow brick building (early 19th century) on the right near the end of the street.
At this crossroad, we will make a slight deviation from the route and go down Krivyi Val Street to the right of Bogdan Khmelnitsky Street, which also has many interesting things to find out. However, we will not only meet with the patron of the city – St. Nicholas, whose monument stands in front of the Lutsk City Council. The building of the City Council was built in the 1930s and was used as a post and telegraph. In Soviet times, the City Council began to work in this building. Opposite to the magistrate – decorated with reliefs and columns – is the house of the Volyn Regional Academic Puppet Theater. It was built in 1890 and in 1975, the drama theater operated here. After it was transferred to a new premise on the Theater Square, they decided to establish a puppet theater here. Until now, it pleased Lutsk citizens with bright performances and also gets numerous awards at international competitions.
At this crossroad, we will make a slight deviation from the route and go down Krivyi Val Street to the right of Bogdan Khmelnitsky Street, which also has many interesting things to find out. However, we will not only meet with the patron of the city – St. Nicholas, whose monument stands in front of the Lutsk City Council. The building of the City Council was built in the 1930s and was used as a post and telegraph. In Soviet times, the City Council began to work in this building. Opposite to the magistrate – decorated with reliefs and columns – is the house of the Volyn Regional Academic Puppet Theater. It was built in 1890 and in 1975, the drama theater operated here. After it was transferred to a new premise on the Theater Square, they decided to establish a puppet theater here. Until now, it pleased Lutsk citizens with bright performances and also gets numerous awards at international competitions.
But we will return to the central pedestrian street of the city – Lesia Ukrainka Street. Walking here, do not rush – the decor of the facades of most houses deserves attention and admiration. The oldest house on this street is at the end at number 5. It is a small brick house built in the beginning of the XIX century, where a grocery store is located. On the contrary – the former home of the Lutsk businessmen of the Kronsteins, now is the premises of the Medical College. It was built at the end of the XIX century, with various embellishments. However, all the decorative elements in 1928 were knocked down, because they were considered a sign of a lack of aesthetic taste. Nevertheless, even without them, the house retains its grandeur and solemnity.
But we will return to the central pedestrian street of the city – Lesia Ukrainka Street. Walking here, do not rush – the decor of the facades of most houses deserves attention and admiration. The oldest house on this street is at the end at number 5. It is a small brick house built in the beginning of the XIX century, where a grocery store is located. On the contrary – the former home of the Lutsk businessmen of the Kronsteins, now is the premises of the Medical College. It was built at the end of the XIX century, with various embellishments. However, all the decorative elements in 1928 were knocked down, because they were considered a sign of a lack of aesthetic taste. Nevertheless, even without them, the house retains its grandeur and solemnity.
When you come to the end of Lesya Ukrainka Street, cross over Kovelska Street, using the crosswalk to your left, then go back to the right to stand on the Brotherhood Bridge (Bratskovyy Bridge). 300 years ago, you would have been standing at the edge of the city, looking down at the Glushets River. The Glushets, along with the River Styr, created a defensive island that protected the city and its castle from enemies over the years. Eventually, the river was re-channeled into underground pipes and Glushets Street, the longest street in Lutsk, enabled easier movement in the city.
When you come to the end of Lesya Ukrainka Street, cross over Kovelska Street, using the crosswalk to your left, then go back to the right to stand on the Brotherhood Bridge (Bratskovyy Bridge). 300 years ago, you would have been standing at the edge of the city, looking down at the Glushets River. The Glushets, along with the River Styr, created a defensive island that protected the city and its castle from enemies over the years. Eventually, the river was re-channeled into underground pipes and Glushets Street, the longest street in Lutsk, enabled easier movement in the city.
Walking on the street immediately to the left of the Church, looking to your right just past the church buildings, you will see the distinctive tower roof of the Chartorysky Tower. This tower is the only one of the eight towers of the Okolnyi, or Lower, Castle that has been preserved. It is attached to the Jesuit collegium. The Okolnyi Castle and the Lutsk, or Upper, Castle together with defensive sacred buildings, made up the general defensive system of Lutsk. The nobility – civic authorities, servicemen, court representatives – lived in the Okolnyi Castle. If you can visualize the area that would have been encompassed with the connected walls of the Okolnyi Castle and the Lutsk Castle in the distance, you can get a sense of the magnitude of the complex. Unfortunately, today the Okolnyi Castle is just a memory, with the Chartorysky Tower standing as a constant reminder.
Walking on the street immediately to the left of the Church, looking to your right just past the church buildings, you will see the distinctive tower roof of the Chartorysky Tower. This tower is the only one of the eight towers of the Okolnyi, or Lower, Castle that has been preserved. It is attached to the Jesuit collegium. The Okolnyi Castle and the Lutsk, or Upper, Castle together with defensive sacred buildings, made up the general defensive system of Lutsk. The nobility – civic authorities, servicemen, court representatives – lived in the Okolnyi Castle. If you can visualize the area that would have been encompassed with the connected walls of the Okolnyi Castle and the Lutsk Castle in the distance, you can get a sense of the magnitude of the complex. Unfortunately, today the Okolnyi Castle is just a memory, with the Chartorysky Tower standing as a constant reminder.
A short distance further on Kafedralna Street brings you to the St. Peter and St. Paul Catholic Church, located near the Castle Square. This imposing church, together with the ancient collegium of the Jesuit Monastery, was built in 1616-1639 in a Baroque style according to the design of Italian architect Giacomo Briano. When the Jesuit Order was abolished in the 1770’s, the building was transferred to the Catholic Church. After repairs and restructuring, the church took on its classical appearance and is now the center of the local Roman Catholic community. You can enter the church to enjoy a view of its lavishly decorated interior. Also, next to the Church, on the right as you face the building, is the entrance to the Caves of the Monastery – an ancient network of tunnels that served to protect the citizens in times of danger.
A short distance further on Kafedralna Street brings you to the St. Peter and St. Paul Catholic Church, located near the Castle Square. This imposing church, together with the ancient collegium of the Jesuit Monastery, was built in 1616-1639 in a Baroque style according to the design of Italian architect Giacomo Briano. When the Jesuit Order was abolished in the 1770’s, the building was transferred to the Catholic Church. After repairs and restructuring, the church took on its classical appearance and is now the center of the local Roman Catholic community. You can enter the church to enjoy a view of its lavishly decorated interior. Also, next to the Church, on the right as you face the building, is the entrance to the Caves of the Monastery – an ancient network of tunnels that served to protect the citizens in times of danger.
As you walk along Galyts’koho Street you can’t help but notice the bright yellow church to your right. This is the Protection of Virgin Orthodox Church, the oldest of the existing Orthodox churches in Lutsk that is still in its original form. Built in the first half of the 17th century, it replaced a more ancient church, which was mentioned in a document in 1583 as already old and needing repair. Minor external changes were completed in the 19th century, including the construction of the bell tower that remains today. The church is known for an icon of the Virgin of Volyn, painted in the 14th century. In 1970 the church presented the icon to the National Museum of Fine Arts in Kiev. As with other Orthodox churches we’ve identified, the Protection of the Virgin Church represents the continuing persistence of the Orthodox faith in the face of the Polish Catholic influence.
As you walk along Galyts’koho Street you can’t help but notice the bright yellow church to your right. This is the Protection of Virgin Orthodox Church, the oldest of the existing Orthodox churches in Lutsk that is still in its original form. Built in the first half of the 17th century, it replaced a more ancient church, which was mentioned in a document in 1583 as already old and needing repair. Minor external changes were completed in the 19th century, including the construction of the bell tower that remains today. The church is known for an icon of the Virgin of Volyn, painted in the 14th century. In 1970 the church presented the icon to the National Museum of Fine Arts in Kiev. As with other Orthodox churches we’ve identified, the Protection of the Virgin Church represents the continuing persistence of the Orthodox faith in the face of the Polish Catholic influence.
Next to the Church, on the right as you face the building, is the entrance to the Caves of the Monastery – an ancient network of tunnels that served to protect the citizens in times of danger.
Next to the Church, on the right as you face the building, is the entrance to the Caves of the Monastery – an ancient network of tunnels that served to protect the citizens in times of danger.
Finally, backtrack to Castle Square and turn right to visit the city’s signature monument, the Lutsk Castle, also known as Lubart’s Castle or the Upper Castle. It was built by the great prince of Volyn, Dmytryi Lubart in 1340-1383 and served as his home. In later years, the castle was the property of other great Lithuanian princes. For many years Lubart Castle served as a strong fortress and as the administrative, political and spiritual capital of the region. It stands on the same ground as an earlier, wooden defensive fortress. Within the area are the remains of the Church of St. John the Theologian, which was built within the walls of the original wooden structure; a museum of bells; a book museum housed in the former Treasury; and an art museum. In 2011, the castle was voted as the best castle in Ukraine, a selection with which the people of Lutsk proudly agree. The castle hosts various activities during the year, including arts and crafts fairs, concert events and knight’s battles. Not surprisingly, it is the most popular site for wedding photographs for couples from Lutsk and surrounding towns. For a small entrance fee, you can wander on the castle grounds, and imagine yourself attending the famous meeting of European leaders in 1429, a meeting to discuss how to deal with threats from the east.
Finally, backtrack to Castle Square and turn right to visit the city’s signature monument, the Lutsk Castle, also known as Lubart’s Castle or the Upper Castle. It was built by the great prince of Volyn, Dmytryi Lubart in 1340-1383 and served as his home. In later years, the castle was the property of other great Lithuanian princes. For many years Lubart Castle served as a strong fortress and as the administrative, political and spiritual capital of the region. It stands on the same ground as an earlier, wooden defensive fortress. Within the area are the remains of the Church of St. John the Theologian, which was built within the walls of the original wooden structure; a museum of bells; a book museum housed in the former Treasury; and an art museum. In 2011, the castle was voted as the best castle in Ukraine, a selection with which the people of Lutsk proudly agree. The castle hosts various activities during the year, including arts and crafts fairs, concert events and knight’s battles. Not surprisingly, it is the most popular site for wedding photographs for couples from Lutsk and surrounding towns. For a small entrance fee, you can wander on the castle grounds, and imagine yourself attending the famous meeting of European leaders in 1429, a meeting to discuss how to deal with threats from the east.
Finally, we are facing the Entrance tower of the Lutsk Castle. This is a proud witness to the history of the city, which withstood many fires, attacks and just adversity. The Lutsk castle consisted of two parts. This is the Upper Castle, which has been preserved until now and the Lower or Roundabout Castle, from which there were only some fragments of walls built into other buildings and one of its eight towers – the Czartoryski Tower. It should be noted that the Lutsk Castle won first place in the All-Ukrainian competition “Seven Wonders of Ukraine: Castles, Palaces, Fortress” in the nomination “Castles”. The history of the stone castle dates back more than 600 years. Earlier on the hill in the meadow of Styr there was a wooden fortress. In 1340-1384, Duke Lubart began construction of the fortress. The castle has three tall rectangular towers: Entrance, Styrova and Vladycha.
These towers are open for visits: Entrance, where you can go with a guide; Styrova, where art exhibition is situated; Vladycha, where the museum of bells is located. In addition, in the premises of the former court at the castle yard there is an art museum, as well as a museum of books on the premises of the former chancery. In the middle of the castle once stood the first church of Lutsk – the Church of St. John the Theologian. Until now, excavations are continuing, which open up new secrets of the history of the Lutsk Castle. But in addition to history, the castle can tell many legends. So, one legend tells about the treasures hidden in the walls of the castle. In one of the fights for Lutsk, the enemies wounded duke. When he died, he ordered to collect all the jewels, hide them in the castle walls and swear them: “The treasure will bring misfortune to everyone who finds it and wants to save it for themselves.” It must serve the inhabitants of Lutsk. «They say that jewels are still there. However, it should be known that the one who finds the treasure and appropriates it, pursues the setbacks, until he gives it for the benefit of the city. On the territory of the castle, varieties of cultural events are regularly held (festivals, concerts, exhibitions, and knight tournaments). One of Lutsk’s best art shows “The Night in the Lutsk Castle”, which takes place every June and gathers artists, artisans, musicians, theaters and, of course, everyone who wants to feel the charm of the night in the mysterious castle.
Finally, we are facing the Entrance tower of the Lutsk Castle. This is a proud witness to the history of the city, which withstood many fires, attacks and just adversity. The Lutsk castle consisted of two parts. This is the Upper Castle, which has been preserved until now and the Lower or Roundabout Castle, from which there were only some fragments of walls built into other buildings and one of its eight towers – the Czartoryski Tower. It should be noted that the Lutsk Castle won first place in the All-Ukrainian competition “Seven Wonders of Ukraine: Castles, Palaces, Fortress” in the nomination “Castles”. The history of the stone castle dates back more than 600 years. Earlier on the hill in the meadow of Styr there was a wooden fortress. In 1340-1384, Duke Lubart began construction of the fortress. The castle has three tall rectangular towers: Entrance, Styrova and Vladycha.
These towers are open for visits: Entrance, where you can go with a guide; Styrova, where art exhibition is situated; Vladycha, where the museum of bells is located. In addition, in the premises of the former court at the castle yard there is an art museum, as well as a museum of books on the premises of the former chancery. In the middle of the castle once stood the first church of Lutsk – the Church of St. John the Theologian. Until now, excavations are continuing, which open up new secrets of the history of the Lutsk Castle. But in addition to history, the castle can tell many legends. So, one legend tells about the treasures hidden in the walls of the castle. In one of the fights for Lutsk, the enemies wounded duke. When he died, he ordered to collect all the jewels, hide them in the castle walls and swear them: “The treasure will bring misfortune to everyone who finds it and wants to save it for themselves.” It must serve the inhabitants of Lutsk. «They say that jewels are still there. However, it should be known that the one who finds the treasure and appropriates it, pursues the setbacks, until he gives it for the benefit of the city. On the territory of the castle, varieties of cultural events are regularly held (festivals, concerts, exhibitions, and knight tournaments). One of Lutsk’s best art shows “The Night in the Lutsk Castle”, which takes place every June and gathers artists, artisans, musicians, theaters and, of course, everyone who wants to feel the charm of the night in the mysterious castle.
Continue now on Kafedralna Street toward the large cathedral in the distance and the Lutsk Castle. As you walk, you will pass the home where the Kosach family, the family of Lesya Ukrainka, lived in the late 1800’s. It was here where Lesya wrote her first known poem, ‘Nadia’ (‘Hope’).
Walk back on Kafedralna Street to Galyts’koho Street, and as you cross Galyts’koho, stop (although not in the middle of the street) and look to your right to see the Jewish Synagogue. It is a premier architectural monument of the 17th century, located in the southwestern area of Old Lutsk, an area which was inhabited primarily by Jewish citizens at the time. The building consists of a square hall, which was used for prayer, and a five-level defensive tower. The defensive characteristics of the synagogue explain its second name — the Small Castle. Lutsk was home to a large Jewish population until the German occupation in World War II, when Jewish citizens of Lutsk suffered the same fate as those in other cities in those tragic times. The Synagogue building now serves as the home to a local sports club.
Walk back on Kafedralna Street to Galyts’koho Street, and as you cross Galyts’koho, stop (although not in the middle of the street) and look to your right to see the Jewish Synagogue. It is a premier architectural monument of the 17th century, located in the southwestern area of Old Lutsk, an area which was inhabited primarily by Jewish citizens at the time. The building consists of a square hall, which was used for prayer, and a five-level defensive tower. The defensive characteristics of the synagogue explain its second name — the Small Castle. Lutsk was home to a large Jewish population until the German occupation in World War II, when Jewish citizens of Lutsk suffered the same fate as those in other cities in those tragic times. The Synagogue building now serves as the home to a local sports club.
Continuing to walk on Galyts’koho Street, look to your right to see the former Lutheran Church, built by German colonists in Lutsk at the beginning of the 20th century. The church looms over the western end of Kafedralna Street. The well-proportioned neo-gothic building with its steep spire is crowned by a large gold cross which completes the architectural spatial axis. In 1940, most of the colonists returned to Germany and their church began to decay. During Soviet times, it was used as a document archive, but in the late 1980’s and early 1990’s, the local Evangelical Baptist community restored the church and began using it as their house of worship.
Continuing to walk on Galyts’koho Street, look to your right to see the former Lutheran Church, built by German colonists in Lutsk at the beginning of the 20th century. The church looms over the western end of Kafedralna Street. The well-proportioned neo-gothic building with its steep spire is crowned by a large gold cross which completes the architectural spatial axis. In 1940, most of the colonists returned to Germany and their church began to decay. During Soviet times, it was used as a document archive, but in the late 1980’s and early 1990’s, the local Evangelical Baptist community restored the church and began using it as their house of worship.
For another interesting side trip, walk down to the church, then walk down the street which passes on the left side of the church complex. As you come to the River Styr, you will see, on your left, the fascinating home of Lutsk sculptor Mykola Golovan.
For another interesting side trip, walk down to the church, then walk down the street which passes on the left side of the church complex. As you come to the River Styr, you will see, on your left, the fascinating home of Lutsk sculptor Mykola Golovan.
Resist the temptation to turn left on the cobbled street toward the castle (we’ll get there soon) and instead walk up Dragomanova Street. Almost immediately, on your right, you will see the Exaltation of the Cross Orthodox Church, which held monastery cells and the buildings of the ancient public religious and cultural educational organization – Lutsk Orthodox Brotherhood. The Brotherhood was allowed to exist, even though it represented resistance to the Catholic influence of the Polish Empire. The complex was built in the early 17th century, replacing the old hospital and church that had been built by Lazar, son of Lithuanian Prince Lubart. A school and a Russian hospital were also located in the complex. Many Ukrainian elders were interred in the caves of the Exaltation of the Cross Orthodox Church, including poet Danylo Bratkovskyi, buried there in 1702. Across the street, on the wall of the library (biblioteka), you can see evidence of the conflict between influences in western Ukraine. There is a plaque memorializing Bratkovskyi, who was executed for his nationalistic beliefs. A fire in 1803 damaged the church and the stone walls were demolished, leaving only the altar, around which the church was reconstructed. Today the church belongs to the Ukrainian Orthodox Church.
Resist the temptation to turn left on the cobbled street toward the castle (we’ll get there soon) and instead walk up Dragomanova Street. Almost immediately, on your right, you will see the Exaltation of the Cross Orthodox Church, which held monastery cells and the buildings of the ancient public religious and cultural educational organization – Lutsk Orthodox Brotherhood. The Brotherhood was allowed to exist, even though it represented resistance to the Catholic influence of the Polish Empire. The complex was built in the early 17th century, replacing the old hospital and church that had been built by Lazar, son of Lithuanian Prince Lubart. A school and a Russian hospital were also located in the complex. Many Ukrainian elders were interred in the caves of the Exaltation of the Cross Orthodox Church, including poet Danylo Bratkovskyi, buried there in 1702. Across the street, on the wall of the library (biblioteka), you can see evidence of the conflict between influences in western Ukraine. There is a plaque memorializing Bratkovskyi, who was executed for his nationalistic beliefs. A fire in 1803 damaged the church and the stone walls were demolished, leaving only the altar, around which the church was reconstructed. Today the church belongs to the Ukrainian Orthodox Church.